3.1　Sample Manufacturing　樣衣制作

Sample room makes out a sample order and finishes the sample, and then the sample is sent to the customer for approval. The size specification of the sample and raw materials is listed on the sample order.

3.1.1　Sample Order　制板通知單

A sample order should carry the dates of preparation, issuance, schedule of start and completion. 4　copies are prepared for the following distribution：one to sales, one to the sample room, and two to the production department（Table 3-1～Table 3-3）.

3.1.2　Sample Card　樣板卡

Comments to the sample can be recorded. Incorrect sewing methods and gar-ment parts may also be mentioned.Much more correct information must be marked in the sample card so as to let everyone have a clear picture of this sample.Further-more, people can clearly know what kind of sample（such as sales sample, approval sample, size sample, shipment sample, and so on.）It belongs to（Table 3-4）.

Table 3-1　Sample Order（Ⅰ）

Table 3-2　Sample Order（Ⅱ）

Table 3-3　Sample Order（Ⅲ）

Table 3-4　Sample Card

3.1.3　Approval Sample Card　核準樣卡

The method of construction is determined by the kind of garment and its price. The two main methods of construction are as follows：

（1）Section work. Each operator on the assembly line sews only one part of the garment；

（2）Complete garment construction. One operator sews the whole garment.Other workers do special work, such as over-locking seams, hemming, buttonholes, etc.This method is often used for better garments, especially tailored jackets.

Workers are paid based on the number of finished garments in a clothing fac-tory. The price paid for a worker is determined by the difficulty of the task and the time needed to complete the task.This is called piecework.Workers detach the seg-ment of the work-ticket that corresponds to the task of completing these garments.At the end of the pay period, each worker's salary is determined by the number of tickets he turns in.

There are also other workers in charge of trimming threads, checking for sew-ing errors, hanging garments on hangers, attaching hang tags, and covering each garment with a plastic bag. When garments have been incorrectly sewn, the quality controller returns them to the factory or contractor to be repaired.The manufacturing department is responsible for mass-production, establishing the line based on various sizes and colors.47

The sample is approved for bulk production, the instructions and comments should be noticed on the approval sample card　48（Table 3-5，Table3-6）.It is a very important process for confirming that all details are correct.The information is as follows：

（1）Client&Factory.

（2）Style number&contract number.

（3）Fabric&trimming.

（4）Size specification, color and measurement.

（5）Garment construction and measurement.

Table 3-5　Approval Sample Card

Table 3-6　Approval Sample Form

Words and Expressions

manufacturing[，m?nju'f?kt??ri?]制造

production schedule[pr?'d?k??n'?edju：l]生產進度表

pattern grading['p?t?n greid?]紙樣放碼

expediting['ekspidaiti?]加快，促進

pattern drawing['p?t?n'dr?：i?]紙樣繪制

marker making['ma：k?'meiki?]排料（廣東話：嘜架制作）

FAB./fabric['f?brik]面料

LBL./label['leibl]商標

specialize['spe??laiz]專業化

special effect['spe??l i'fekt]特殊效果

packing[‘p?ki?]包裝

converting[k?n'v?：ti?]改變，轉換

efficiency[i'fi??nsi]工作效率

attachment[?'t?t?m?nt]附件

significantly[sig'nifik?ntli]重要地

productivity[pr?d?k'tiviti]生產效率

quality['kw?liti]質量

showroom['??ωrωm]樣板陳列室

transmitted[tr?nz'mitid]傳輸

approval[?'pru：v?l]核準，核可

specification/Spec.[，spesifi'kei??n]規格

raw material[r?：m?'ti?ri?l]原材料

distribution[distri'bju：??n]分配

collar['k?l?]領子

shoulder['??uld?]肩寬

bust/chest[b?st/t?est]胸圍

armhole['a：mh?ωl]袖窿（廣東話：夾圈）

X-back[eks-b?k]后背寬

C/B length[si：/bi：le?W]后中長，后中心線

Slv. length[sli：v le?W]袖長

cuff['k?f]袖級，袖口克夫

waist[weist]腰圍

hips/seat[hips/si：t]臀圍（廣東話：坐圍）

front rise/F. R.[fr?nt raiz]前襠（廣東話：前浪）

back rise/B. R.[b?k raiz]后襠（廣東話：后浪）

in-seam[in-si：m]內接縫（廣東話：內長）

out-leg[aut-leg]外長

thigh[Wai]大腿圍

bottom['b?t?m]下擺

front part[fr?nt pa：t]前片，前幅

back part[b?k pa：t]后片，后幅

sleeve opening[sli：v'?up?ni?]袖口

pocket['p?kit]口袋

waistband['weIstb?nd]褲腰

fastening['fa：sni?]系結物

button['b?tn]紐扣

thread[Wred]縫紉線

interlining['int?'laini?]里襯（廣東話：襯樸）

lining['laini?]里料

shoulder pad['??uld? p?d]墊肩

metal-ware['metl-we?]金屬輔料

ribbing['ribi?]羅紋

knitwear['nit, wε?]針織服裝

yarn[ja：n]紗線

count[kaunt]支數

CLR./color['k?l?]顏色

POS./position[p?'zi??n]位置

initial sample[i'ni??l's?mpl]初板

brand label[br?nd'leibl]主商標

approval sample[?'pru：v?l's?mpl]核準板，核可樣

month of store[m?nW ?v, st?：]存貨期

LHD side/left hand side[left h?nd said]左手邊

NK./neck[nek]領圈

CB/center back['sent? b?k]后中

prices ticket tag[praisiz'tikit t?g]價錢牌

THRU./through[Wru：]通過，穿過

plastic pin['pl?stik pin]塑料大頭針

CF/center front['sent? fr?nt]前中

SNL/single thread['si?gl Wred]單線/單針

DBL/double threads['d?bl Wredz]雙線/雙針

OVRLK/over-lock['?uv?-l?k]包縫（廣東話：鎖邊）

FM./from[fr?m，]由，從

flat package[fl?t'p?kid?]平包，平板包裝

high shoulder point[hai'??uld? p?int]高肩點

spare Qty.[spε?'kw?ntiti]損耗數

measurement chart['me??m?nt t?a：t]尺寸表

circumference[s?'k?mf?r?ns]全圍

perpendicular[p?：p?n'dikjul?]直角

shoulder width['??uld? widW]肩寬

collar/neck band['k?l? nek b?nd]領圍

collar stand width/neck band width['k?l? st?nd widW/nek b?nd widW]領底寬

woven label['w?uv?n'leibl]機織商標

salesman sample['seilzm?n's?mpl]銷售樣

size set sample[saiz set's?mpl]尺碼確認樣

shipping sample['?ipi?'s?mpl]船樣（廣東話：船頭板）

counter sample['kaunt?'s?mpl]回樣

garment construction['ga：m?nt

k?n'str?k??n]服裝結構

category['k?tig?ri]種類

hemming['hemi?]縫邊腳，卷邊

tailored jackets['teil?d'd??kit]西服

piecework['pi：sw?k]計件工作

hangtag['h??t?g]吊牌

mass-production[m?s-pr?'d?k??n]大量生產

retailer[ri：'teil?]零售商

bulk production[b?lk pr?'d?k??n]批量生產

client['klai?nt]客人，買方

size specification[saiz, spesifi'kei??n]尺碼規格

measurement['me??m?nt]尺寸

contract['k?ntr?kt，]合同

bottoms['b?t?mz]下裝

tops[t?ps]上裝

out-seam[aut-si：m]側縫，外長

zipper['zip?]拉鏈

neck drop[nek dr?p]領深

neck opening[nek'?upni?]領開口

Act./Actual['?ktju?l]實際的

yoke[j?uk]育克，過肩（廣東話：擔干，機頭）

front pocket[fr?nt'p?kit]前口袋

back pocket[b?k'p?kit]后口袋

seat-seam[si：t-si：m]坐圍縫跡

top-stitching[t?p-'stit?i?]面縫線跡（廣東話：緝面線）

EMB./Embroidery[im'br?id?ri]繡花

Dimension[di'men??n]尺寸

piping/insert['paipi? in's?：t]嵌邊

work-in-process/WIP[w?：k in-'pr?uses]半成品

pre-production sample/PP Sample[pri：-

pr?'d?k??n's?mpl]產前樣，PP板

fit sample[fit's?mpl]合身樣

inspection certificate[in'spek??n s?'tifikit]檢查確認證

inspection certificate sample/IC Sample[IC's?mpl]客戶確認樣，IC板

body rise['b?di raiz]褲襠（廣東話：直浪）

plastic bag['pl?stik b?g]塑膠袋

run-stitching[r?n-'stit?i?]初縫線跡（廣東話：運線）

edge-stitching[ed?-'stit?i?]縫邊線跡（廣東話：緝邊線）

hip pocket[hip'p?kit]后口袋

Denim['denim]牛仔布

belt loop[belt lu：p]褲耳

crotch[kr?t?]褲襠，小浪，浪頂

leg opening[leg'?upni?]褲腳圍

waistband['weIstb?nd]腰頭

fly[flai]暗門襟

low hips[l?u hips]下臀圍

thigh[Wai]脾圍，大腿圍

yoke[j?uk]育克

pucker['p?k?]皺紋，起皺

ASAP/As Soon As Possible　盡快

Exercises

1.List main areas of the manufacturing function.

Example：sewing

2.List the information on an approved sample card.

3.Translate the following terms into Chinese.

（1）pattern grading

（2）packing

（3）quality

（4）approval sample

（5）size specification

（6）collar

（7）shoulder

（8）bust

（9）armhole

（10）C/B length

（11）cuff

（12）waist

（13）hips

（14）front rise

（15）in-seam

（16）out-leg

（17）bottom

（18）back part

（19）sleeve opening

（20）waistband

（21）fastening

（22）button

（23）thread

（24）interlining

（25）lining

（26）shoulder pad

（27）metal-ware

（28）ribbing

（29）knitwear

（30）yarn

（31）count

（32）initial sample

（33）brand label

（34）center back

（35）over-locking

（36）flat package

（37）measurement chart

（38）scye

（39）neck band width

（40）woven label

（41）sales sample

（42）size set sample

（43）shipment sample

（44）counter sample

（45）hemming

（46）tailored jackets

（47）hang tag

（48）retailer

（49）bottoms

（50）tops

（51）out-seam

（52）zipper

（53）neck drop

（54）yoke

（55）front pocket

（56）top-stitching

（57）rivet

（58）piping

（59）WIP

（60）PP Sample

（61）fit sample

（62）IC sample

（63）body rise

（64）run-stitching

（65）edge-stitching

（66）hip pocket

（67）care label

（68）first sample

（69）initial sample

（70）advertised sample

（71）promotion sample

（72）brand label

4.List the major measurement points of the following styles（Men's Jacket, Five-pocket Jeans）.

Example：chest, collar, etc.

waist, front rise, etc.