1.1　Knowledge of Material　材料知識

Fibres, yarns, fabrics and accessories are the basic requirement of any textile, apparel or related industry. It is very important to select the appropriate fabric ac-cording to customers'requirements.So the manufacturers select fibres, yarns and fabrics according to the product they manufacture.

1.1.1　Textile Fibre　紡織纖維

Textile is applied to woven and knit fabric, such as threads, cords, ropes, braids, laces, embroideries, nets, and clothes made by weaving, knitting, felting, bonding, tufting, etc.1And the different kinds of textiles possess characteristics that make them useful in numerous unexpected applications.Textiles are still the major com-ponent of the clothes we wear and of many furnishings in our homes and offices.Fibres are the most basic raw material for the textile industry.And fibres are divided into various categories on the basis of different criteria.The most common catego-rization is that of natural fibres and man made fibres.Fibres are also categorized as filament and staple fibres.Fibres in the form of strands are called filaments, example being nylon filament yarn.Very short fibres are known as staple fibres.The figure 1-1　shows a common classification of textile fibres.

Originally, all textiles were made from natural fibre such as cotton, wool, mo-hair, linen, ramie, and vicuna, etc. All of these were available only as staple fibres that had to be spun into yarns before they were to cloth.2And natural fibres are de-rived from plants, animals, or minerals, and include cotton, flax, wool, or silk, etc.Manufactured fibres are chemically produced.Each fibre has characteristics that make them suitable for various uses.Fibre blends are combinations of two or more different fibres.Usually the fibre present in highest percentage dominates the fabric, but a successful blend will exhibit the desirable qualities of all.

Silk was the first monofilament material, and for years scientists were obsessed with trying to make“artificial”silk. Some new textiles possess qualities that make them stain-resistant, flameproof, and even stiff.Innovation in textile technology con-tinues and more unusual products will almost surely emerge.These developments laid the foundation for the scientific principles that led the DuPont Company to in-vent nylon and polyester fibres and yarns.Artificial fibres are produced from natural products, such as cellulose and proteins.Not very resistant, can be dyed very easily but tend to lose color.Crease easily and if they haven't undergone special treatments can shrink or lose shape.These fabrics have a silk appearance, shape very well and are therefore ideal in the production of drapery.It can be used for lingerie, suits, blouses and lining.

Synthetic fibres are made entirely from chemicals. Synthetic fibres are usually stronger than either natural or regenerated fibres.Synthetic fibres and the regenerated acetate fibre are thermoplastic, they are softened by heat.Therefore manufacturers can shape these fibres at high temperatures, adding such features as pleats and creas-

es. Synthetic fibres will melt if touched with a hot iron.The most widely used kinds of synthetic fibres are nylon（polyamide），polyester, acrylic and polypropylene.

The most important animal fibres are wool, mohair, cashmere, etc. It is used in suitings, coatings, dress-goods, knitwear, rugs, etc.Highest quality mohair is expen-sive, and it is a difficult fibre to spin.Cashmere is the under-coat hair of the Cash-mere goat.Cashmere goats grow two coats, a fine soft under-coat and a coarse outer coat of long hair.3Cashmere is beautifully soft and lustrous, it has a slightly slippery handle and is used in high quality knitwear, coatings and suitings.Fabrics made from 100%cashmere are expensive, therefore mixtures with wool are quite common.

1.1.2　Yarn　紗線

In general, yarn may be defined as a linear assembled stage of fibres or fila-ments, which is formed into a continuous strand having textile-like characteristics. The textile-like characteristics refer to good tensile strength and high flexibility.Many non-textile materials can be designed to have similar strength in continu-ous-strand form.

There are four basic staple yarn manufacturing systems that have become well standardized. These staple yarn systems are the carded cotton, the combed cotton, the woolen, and the worsted.The carded and combed cotton systems were developed to convert short and long cotton and cotton-like fibres into yarn.The woolen and worsted systems are developed to convert short and long wool and wool-like fibres into yarn.

Before the advent of man-made fibres, silk was the only continuous-filament yarn available. The desired frequencies and directions of twist were added the single yarn, and subsequently multiple yarns.

If the filament is to be processed in a staple yarn system, thousands of fibres are brought together into a twist-less linear assemblage known as tow for subsequent crimping and cutting operation.4One of the advantages of man-made fibres is the possibility to exercise over each step of the production process.

A high-bulk yarn is a staple or continuous-filament yarn that has a normal ex-tensibility with having a high degree of fullness. These yarns retain their bulkiness under both relaxed and stressed conditions.Great covering power with little weight is possible in fabrics composed of high-bulk yarns.

1.1.3　Fabric　織物

According to the garments purposes and demands manufacturer will use, fab-ric can be chosen. There are many exciting fabrics in shops, with different weights, styles, and price ranges.The quality（durability, warmth, structure, surface, bulk-iness）of fabrics depends upon which raw materials are used to make threads, how they are spun, woven and finished（shiny, furry, waterproof, etc）.5

Most garments are woven fabrics made of wool or wool blend fabrics, which are divided into two categories—woolen or worsted. Many people can distinguish woolen fabrics by their heavier weight&handling from worsteds by their lightness&smoothness, but what they may not realize is that the two terms refer to the yarns from which the cloth has been woven.6Some fabrics, such as blazers, are woven with a worsted warp and woolen weft.The difference between them reflects their suitability for different uses—woolen for jackets and overcoats, worsteds for suits and trousers.

The weaving fabric includes plain, twill and satin, the classic types include cot-ton, linen and man-made as well as woolen and worsted, etc. The best-known terms for woven fabrics are as follows：

（1）Calico：the name is applied to any plain cotton. Used for“trying out”pat-terns prior to cutting out in the deserved fabric.

（2）Pile/Nap：the surface of fabric, tufts or loops formed by extra threads are woven into the fabric and these are either cut or left as loops.7

（3）Bedford cord：strong cotton or wool cloth with a definite rib in the warp. Unlike cord, the rib is not formed by a pile but is made by extra warp“stuffing”threads.

（4）Corduroy：a cotton or cotton blend fabric with a pile of ribs in the warp, known as wale.

（5）Duck：strong, closely woven cotton with a smooth surface.

（6）Flannel：a woolen or worsted twill fabric with a soft handle and surface achieved by milling. Best known as gray, it originated from wale.

（7）Gabardine：a fine twill fabric, usually worsted, cotton or linen, with a diag-onal appearance.

（8）Herringbone：a weave giving a zig-zag effect resembling the backbone of a fish, achieved by alternating the direction of the twill.

（9）Hopsack：a construction based on the plain weave in which two or more

warp and weft threads weave as one, forming a basket-effect.

（10）Panama：a lightweight plain weave suiting fabric.

（11）Serge：robust twill weave fabric, usually wool and plain dyed.

（12）Tweed：sturdy woolen cloth, originally woven in southern Scotland but now applied to wide range of fabrics, characteristics by natural colors in mixtures.

（13）Twill：description of any fabric woven in twill weaves（such as denim, gabardine and serge）. Twills can easily be recognized by the diagonal appearance of the surface of the fabric.8The cloth is traditionally cut so that in the finished gar-ment the diagonal effect runs from bottom left up to top right.

（14）Venetian：a satin weave fabric（smooth surface）with a lustrous look wo-ven with a worsted warp and a woolen weft.

The knitting fabric divides into two basic knitting forms of warp-knitting&weft-knitting. Knitted fabric is made by intermeshing loops, and would consist of any kind of fibres, yarns, stitches or patterns for apparel, home-furniture and indus-trial end-uses.9Knitted fabric is stretched more than a woven fabric.The weft knit-ting has remained popular for garment sections making, and the fabric is used as a cut and sew basic.The common knitted fabrics are as follows：

（1）Weft knit：knitting fabric where a yarn forms loops across the width of the fabric, it can be either hand-made or machine processed.

（2）Warp Knitting：knitting fabric in loops of yarn running vertically, such as tricot knits and raschel knits.

（3）Plain/jersey：semi-circular needle loops shown in the front, and V-shaped loops shown in the back. And smooth side is the front, while the back is rough.It curls easily at both ends, and unravels readily from both ends.End uses are under-wear, shirts, dresses, sweaters, stockings and T-shirts.

（4）Rib/Double jersey：the 1×1　rib is the simplest rib fabric in which the structure includes alternate wale of plain and reversed plain stitches. Examples of the other typical constructions of ribs are 2×2　rib and 3×3　rib.A broken stitch will cause laddering, and will not curl at both ends and good stretch ability in widthwise direction.End uses are cuffs, collars, waistbands, sweaters and other garments.

（5）Purl：this weft knitted fabric has better extensibility in lengthwise direc-tion, both sides of the fabric have similar appearance to the reverse side of plain knitting, and the fabric does not curl at both ends. End uses are children's wear and sweaters.

（6）Interlock：can only be unraveled from the last end, without tendency to ladder and curl, and smooth on both sides. End uses are ladies dresses, blouses, T-shirts, sweaters, outerwear, sport-wear and underwear.

（7）Terry knit：a broken stitch will be running, more flexible and more absor-bent than woven terry cloth. End uses are robes, beachwear and other fashion apparel.

（8）Velour knit：better draped ability, soft handle and suede-like surface. And end uses are men's shirts and women's dresses.

（9）Pile knit：better draped ability, can be laundered and cold tumble-dried, and fur-like surface. End uses are fur fabrics and rugs.

The main competitor to weave and knit in fabric production is the rise of the“non-woven”. These fabrics are directly converted from fibre to fabric, without the usual stages of yarn production.There are clear differences in general terms between woven, knitted and non-woven.

1.1.4　Garment Trimmings　服裝輔料

There are many important supporting accessories（named as trimmings）ap-plied in garment manufacturing, such as lining, interlining, adhesive tape, stay, shoulder pads, etc. In fact, these components take a very important role in the con-struction of garments, they tend to enhance the appearance and improve the handling of sewing operators.10

（1）Lining：cloth shaped to cover the inside of the garment. It can improve the garment quality, give a better shape retention and provide more comfort for the wearer.

（2）Interlining：an inner lining between garment and proper lining to give body shape or extra warmth. There are several types of interlining, such as fusible interlin-ing, non-fusible interlining or sew-in interlining, and may be classified into woven interlining, knit interlining, non-woven interlining or paper interlining.

（3）Tape：a narrow strip of material applied to a garment part for either a func-tional or a decorative purpose. Tapes can be applied to many parts of a garment, de-pending on its usage and its design.For example, if the tape is for hanging, it will be placed at the top edge of a skirt or underarm seam/shoulder seam of dress, but if it is a decorative tape, it will be placed on the garment according to the required design.

（4）Stay：a material applied to garments for strengthening purpose. There are various kinds of stays made from different materials for different applications, such as collar stay, supporting stay and other special stays.

（5）Shoulder pads：the most popular padding to give firmness to the armhole. In fact, the application of shoulder pads always gives a garment good quality and a luxurious feeling.

Besides above supporting accessories of manufacturing, there are many other accessories, such as buttons, threads, zippers, elastics, belts, rivets, magic tape or Vel-cro, eye-lets, care labels, size labels, brand labels, and other packing accessories, etc.

Otherwise, the fashion accessory is a part that used to achieve a specific out-look of the wearer, such as handbags, umbrellas, wallets, boots and shoes, cravats, ties, hats, belts and suspenders, gloves, jewelry, watches, shawls, scarves, socks, and stockings, etc.

Words and Expressions

flexibility[，fleks?'biliti]適應性，靈活性*

textile['tekstail]紡織的，紡織品

woven fabric['w?uv?n'f?brik]機織布

fibre['faib?]纖維

filament['fil?m?nt]長纖絲

staple yarn['steipl ja：n]短纖絲

interlacing[，int?（：）'leisi?]交織

felting['felti?]制氈法

rope[r?up]繩索

braid[breid]飾帶

tufting['t?fti?]裁絨

natural fibre['n?t??r?l'faib?]天然纖維

mohair['m?uhε?]馬海毛

cashmere[k??'mi?]山羊絨，開司米毛

linen['linin]亞麻布

flax[fl?ks]亞麻，麻布

textured yarn['tekst??d ja：n]膨松紗，變形紗

glass fibre[gla：s'faib?]玻璃纖維

metal fibre['metl'faib?]金屬纖維

nylon['nail?n]尼龍

cotton['k?tn]棉

viscose rayon['visk?us'rei?n]粘膠纖維

polyester['p?liest?]聚酯纖維，滌綸

synthetic[sin'Wetic]合成纖維

acetate['?si, teit]醋酯纖維

man-made fibre[m?n meid'faib?]化學纖維

regenerated fibre[ri'd?en?rit'faib?]再生纖維

mineral['min?r?l]礦物質

silk[silk]絲

wool[wul]羊毛

towel['tau?l]毛巾

suiting['sju：ti?]西裝料

coating['k?uti?]外衣料

dress-goods[dres-gudz]服裝產品

knitwear['nit, wε?]針織服裝

rug[r?g]厚毯，小地毯

yarn[ja：n]紗線

acrylic[?'krilik]腈綸

print fabric[print'f?brik]印花布

artificial[a：ti'fi??l]人造的

blend fibre[blend'faib?]混紡纖維

property['pr?p?ti]特性，性質

woolen['wulin]粗紡毛

strand[str?nd]繩，股紗

worsted['wustid]精紡毛

carded[ka：d]粗梳

combed[k?umd]精梳

density['densiti]密度

advent['?dv?nt]到來，出現

multiple yarn['m?ltipl ja：n]多股紗

end-use[end-ju：s]最后用途

bulk yarn[b?lk ja：n]膨體紗

shrinkage['?rinkid?]縮水

loop formation[lu：p f?：'mei??n]線圈形成

spun[sp?n]捻成絲狀的，紡

entrapping[in'tr?pi?]使陷入

counts[kaunts]棉紗支數

spinning['spini?]紡紗

spun yarn[sp?n ja：n]細紗，短纖紗

camel hair['k?m?l he?]駱駝毛

rabbit hair['r?bit he?]兔毛

shiny['?aini]發亮的（廣東話：起鏡面）

furry['f?：ri]毛皮制品

waterproof['w?：t?pru：f]防水的

warp-knitting[w?：p-'niti?]經編針織

weft-knitting[weft-'niti?]緯編針織

durability[，dju?r?'biliti]耐用的

non-woven['n?'-w?uv?n]非織造布

blanket['bl??kit]毛毯

suits[sju：t]套裝

coating['k?uti?]大衣

diagonal[dai'?g?nl]斜紋的

herringbone['heri?b?un]人字形

zig-zag['zig-z?g]人字紋

hopsack['h?p, s?k]方平織物

plain weave[plein wi：v]平紋組織

panama[，p?n?'ma：]巴拿馬薄呢

serge[s?：d?]嗶嘰

robust[r?'b?st]粗壯的

tweed[twi：d]粗花呢

sturdy['st?：di]強健的

Scotland['sk?tl?nd]蘇格蘭

Denim['denim]牛仔布，粗斜紋棉布

traditionally[tr?'di??n（?）li]傳統的

venetian[vi'ni：??n]直貢呢，威尼斯縮 絨呢

sock[s?k]短襪

stocking['st?ki?]長襪

lustrous['l?str?s]有光澤的

luxurious[l?g'zju?ri?s]華麗的

outerwear['aωt?we?（r）]外套

distinguish[dis'ti?gwi?]區別，分類

blazering['bleiz?]鮮艷的運動上衣

robe[r?ub]長袍

jacket['d??kit]夾克

overcoat['?uv?k?ut]外套

trousers['traωz?z]西褲

Bedford cord[bedf?：d k?：d]經條燈芯絨

stuffing['st?fi?]填充料

wale[weil]縱行線圈

duck[d?k]帆布

flannel['fl?nl]法蘭絨

twill[twil]斜紋布

gabardine['g?b?di：n]斜紋呢

velour knit[v?'lu? nit]絲絨針織布

interlock[，int?'l?k]雙面針織

jersey['d??：zi]平紋針織

looped fabric[lu：pt'f?brik]起圈布

pile fabric[pail'f?brik]起毛織布

purl[p?：l]雙反面針織布

raschel[ra：'?el, r?]拉舍爾經編織物

tricot['trik?u]特里科經編織物

rug[r?g]地毯

stripe[straip]條紋布

corduroy['k?：d?r?i]燈芯絨

sweater['swet?]毛線衫，羊毛衫

loop['teri lu：p]線圈，毛圈

terry knit['teri nit]厚絨針織布

rib[rib]羅紋織物

double jersey['d?bl'd??：zi]雙面平紋

lining['laini?]里料

interlining['int?'laini?]里襯

adhesive tape[?d'hi：siv teip]黏性帶條

stay[stei]拉條（廣東話：扁帶條）

shoulder pad['??uld? p?d]墊肩

component[k?m'p?un?nt]部件

shape retention[?eip ri'ten??n]定形

fusible interlining['fju：z?bl'int?'laini?]黏合襯，熱熔襯

non-fusible interlining['n?n-'fju：z?bl'int?'laini?]非黏合襯

sew-in interlining[sju：-in'int?'laini?]車縫里襯（廣東話：生里襯）

paper interlining['peip?'int?'laini?]紙襯tape[teip]牽條，帶條

decorative tape['dek?r?tiv teip]裝飾帶

underarm seam['?nd?ra：m si：m]腋下縫

arm-hole[a：m-h?ul]袖窿

button['b?tn]紐扣

thread[Wred]縫紉線

zipper['zip?]拉鏈

elastic[i'l?stik]松緊帶

belt[belt]皮帶

rivet['rivit]鉚釘（廣東話：撞釘）

magic tape/Velcro['m?d?ik teip/velcre]魔術貼

eye-let[ai-let]孔眼，眼孔

care label[ke?'leibl]洗滌標

size label[saiz'leibl]尺碼標

brand label[br?nd'leibl]主商標

packing accessory['p?ki? ?k'ses?ri]包裝輔料

warp float[w?：p fl?ut]經向跳花（廣東話：浮經）

hat[h?t]草帽

handbag['h?ndb?g]手提袋*

hemp[hemp]大麻

jute[d?u：t]黃麻

mono-filament['m?n?u-'fil?m?nt]單股長絲*

multi-filament[，m?lti-'fil?m?nt]多股長絲

carpet['ka：pit]地毯

poplin['p?plin]紡，府綢

sucker['s?k?]泡狀布

velveteen['velvi'ti：n]仿天鵝絨

velvet['velvit]天鵝絨

bleaching['bli：t?i?]漂白

brocade[br?'keid]織錦

Aberdeen[，?b?'di：n]阿巴丁布

canvas['k?nv?s]馬尾襯布，帆布*

crepe[kreip]縐布，縐綢

chiffon['?if?n]薄紗，雪紡

fur[f?：]皮裘

gray cloth/calico[grei kl?：W/'k?lik?u]平布，白布（廣東話：胚布）*

melton['melt?n]麥爾登呢*

taffeta['t?fit?]塔府綢*

towel cloth['tau?l kl?：W]毛巾布

waterproof fabric['w?：t?pru：f'f?brik]防水布*

selvedge['selvid?]布邊*

chambray['??mbrei]有條紋或格子花紋的布*

crepe de-chine[kreip di：-t?ain]雙縐布*

dobby['d?bi]小提花織物*

sateen[s?'ti：n]緯向緞紋（廣東話：緯向色丁）*

satin['s?tin]經向緞紋（廣東話：經向色丁）

mildew resistant finish['mildju：ri'zist?nt'fini?]防霉整理*

moth resistant finish[m?W ri'zist?nt'fini?]防蟲整理*

flameproof fabric['fleImpru：f'f?brik]防火織物*

perspiration resistant finish[，p?：sp?'rei??n ri'zist?nt'fini?]防汗整理*

shrink-resistant/preshrunk finish[?ri?k

ri'zist?nt/'pri：'?r??k'fini?]防縮整理*

antistatic finish[，?nti'st?tik'fini?]防靜電加工*

atmospheric fading resistant finish[?tm?s'ferik'feidi? ri'zist?nt'fini?]防褪色整理*

crease&wrinkly resistant finish[kri：s&'ri?kli ri'zist?nt'fini?]防皺整理*

resin finish['rezin'fini?]樹脂整理*

antiseptic finish[，?nti'septik'fini?]防蛀整理*

glazed finish[gleizd'fini?]扎光整理*

bleeding['bli：di?]洗水后褪色*

battik['b?tik]蠟染*

opaque finish[?u'peik'fini?]防透光整理*

odorless&perfumed finish['?ωd?lis'p?：fju：m, d'fini?]防臭整理*

ramie['r?mi]苧麻纖維

vicuna[vi'kju：n?]小羊駝

lingerie[，l?n??'ri：]婦女貼身內衣

polyamide[p?li'?maid]聚酰胺

polypropylene[，p?li'pr?upili：n]丙綸，聚丙烯

angora[??'g?：r?]安哥拉山羊毛

polyethylene[，p?li'eWili：n]聚乙烯

spandex[sp?ndeks]氨綸、彈性纖維

merino[m?'ri：n?u]美利奴羊毛

modacrylic[，m?d?'krilik]變性腈綸

Polynosic[，p?li'n?sik]富纖

umbrella[?m'brel?]雨傘

boots[boots]靴子

cravat[kr?'v?t]圍巾

belt[belt]腰帶

suspender[s?'spend?]吊褲帶，吊襪帶

glove[gl?v]手套

shawl[??：l]披肩

Exercises

1.Translate the following terms into Chinese.

（1）textile

（2）viscose

（3）woven fabric

（4）polyester

（5）synthetic

（6）filament

（7）acetate

（8）triacetate

（9）felting

（10）regenerated fibre

（11）rope

（12）braid

（13）natural fibre

（14）mohair

（15）cashmere

（16）linen

（17）flax

（18）towel

（19）rayon

（20）suiting

（21）nylon

（22）coating

（23）knitwear

（24）rug

（25）double end

（26）acrylic

（27）warp float

（28）artificial fibre

（29）woolen

（30）taffeta

（31）loop

（32）spinning

（33）fur

（34）multiple yarn

（35）silk

（36）lining

（37）wool

（38）fabric

（39）cotton

（40）shell fabric

（41）interlining

（42）furry

（43）waterproof

（44）warp-knitting

（45）weft-knitting

（46）worsted

（47）non-woven

（48）blazer

（49）jacket

（50）trousers

（51）loop pile

（52）duck

（53）blanket

（54）flannel

（55）suit

（56）twill

（57）gabardine

（58）herringbone

（59）hopsack

（60）serge

（61）tweed

（62）denim

（63）satin

（64）leather

（65）stripe

（66）corduroy

（67）sweat-shirt

（68）sweater

（69）crepe

（70）chiffon

（71）care label

（72）size label

（73）brand label

（74）overcoat

（75）spandex

（76）merino

（77）modacrylic

（78）umbrella

（79）boots

（80）cravat

（81）belt

（82）suspender

（83）glove

（84）shawl

2.List 5 types of natural fibres and 4 types of man-made fibres.

Example：Natural Fibre：Cotton

Example：Man-Made Fibre：Polyester

3.List 5 kinds of woven fabrics and 5 kinds of knitted fabrics.

Example：Woven Fabric：Denim

Example：Knitted Fabric：Jersey

4.List 10 kinds of garment accessories.

Example：Button