2.1　Fashion Design　服裝設計

The fashion design is a particular or individual interpretation treatment of a style. A style may be expressed in a great many designs, all different, yet all related because they are in the same style.19“Fashion Sense”consists of the ability to tell which clothing and accessories look good and which don’t.Since the entire notion of fashion depends on subjectivity, the fashion designers create their collections by combining their own images with fashion trends.The fashion illustration or design sketch shows the effect of wearing（Figure 2-1）.

2.1.1　Fashion lllustration　時裝草圖

Fashion sketches express the designer's concept and support the creation and marketing of the collection. Sometimes having a sketch will help you get your de-sign ideas across and nailed down before you start any part of the sewing production process.

（1）Women's Blouse：It is a soft and loose garment for the upper body, which is worn by women together with skirts or slacks.20In today’s fashion, such as the neckline and the collar, length, cut, details and decoration, together with the material produce a particular style.It is typically gathered at the waist or hips so that it hangs loosely over the wearer’s body（Figure 2-2）.

（2）Sweat Shirt：It may be pullover or coat style of cotton-terry cloth, fleece-lined cotton knit or a smooth cotton interlock. It can vary with solid colors, plaids, strips or checks.

（3）Uniform：This style of shirt is designed to compliment of the uniform sta-tus, or if the shirt is to be worn without a jacket then attention must be given to the practical aspects of the wearer's occupation.21Such as police, emergency services, security guards, etc.And some other officials, workplaces and schools also wear uni-forms in their duties.

（4）Work Clothing：The shirt is designed with the first consideration given to the kind of work of the wearer, especially some works that involve manual labour. The work clothing provide durability and safety, the fashion and style is a secondary priority, but must not be neglected（Figure 2-3）.

（5）Optional Pockets：Pockets are both functional and decorative, and come in a variety of styles, there are three general manufacturing principles, patch pocket, set-in pocket and seam pocket.22And the patch is an extra shell fabric piece lay on top of the garment directly.Patch pockets adorn men’s, women’s, and children gar-ment.The fabric piece is stitched on three sides, with top open.They can be square, rectangular, pointed, curved, or other special shapes, and may be decorated with topstitching, lace or braid trims.Fashion designers often create variations on patch pockets, using such elements as decorative stitching, zippers, draping, welts, but-ton-down closures, and flaps, etc23（Figure 2-4）.

（6）A-Line：In 1955，Christian Dior produced a line, which ran from fairly narrow shoulder and bust to a wide hemline at low calf length, giving the impression of the shape of a capital letter“A”. The cross line of the“A”usually came at or be-low the knee, such as flounce of pleats24（Figure 2-5）.

（7）Princess Line：A princess line or princess dress describes a woman's fitted dress or other garment cut in long panels without any seams at the waistline.

（8）Halter Neckline：A neckline with a strap or built up bodice in front, con-tinuing round to the back of the body. It is sleeveless, maybe just single strap around neck or over shoulder.

（9）Breeches：Short trousers used for riding. It is normally closed and fastened about the leg, along its open seams at varied lengths, and to the knee, by either but-tons or by a draw-string, or by one or more straps and buckle or brooches.

2.1.2　Production Sketch　生產圖

Production sketch is named as workroom sketch, and it is a clear accurately drawn sketch of a garment that shows the important cutting details such as pockets, darts, seams, top-stitching, proportions, as well as other special design details.

（1）Jacket：It is a basic item of outerwear, and it is a mid-stomach-length garment for the upper body. Sometimes, it refers particularly to the tailored types in men's clothing, e.g.men's tailored jacket.In a broad sense it includes the denim or jumper as well, and is worn by men, women and children（Figure 2-6）.

（2）Skirt：The skirt is clothing worn from the waist down and which is the basic element of women's clothing matching jacket with a skirt makes a suit, or cos-tume, such as women's tailored suit with skirt25（Figure 2-7）.Many styles of skirts are subject to changes in fashion, such as jeans skirt.Individual styles are distin-guished by length, width, silhouette, cut and details, etc.

（3）Jeans：The term jeans are used to describe the very close fitting trousers, e. g.five-pockets jeans.The most famous jeans being known as Levi's are made by the large trousers makers in the world.26The first jeans were made in 1850 by Levi Straus for gold prospectors in USA.Now, Jeans have now become a fashionable gar-ment for both men and women as leisure and casual wear, and they come in various fits, including skinny, tapered, slim, straight, boot cut, narrow bottom, bell bottom, low waist and flare, etc（Figure 2-8）.

（4）Sport Wear：A style should be made of the tops&bottoms for different sports. It will be found that practical consideration about colors and designs of fabric also play a large part in the designing of sports shirts（Figure 2-9）.

（5）Mandarin Dress：It is a Chinese Mandarin Dress, named as Qipao Dress, with a narrow upstanding collar meeting at the front of the neck27.The original Qi-pao was wide and loose, and it covered most of the woman’s body, revealing only the head, hands, and the tips of the toes.With time though, the Qipao were tailored to become more form fitting and revealing（Figure 2-10）.

（6）Undergarment：It is an item of clothing worn beneath outer clothes, usually in direct contact with the skin, to shape the body. Undergarment is known by a num-ber of terms, such as Unders, Underwear, Underclothes and Underclothing, etc.Wom-en's undergarments collectively are called lingerie too.If made of suitable material or textile, some undergarments can serve as nightwear or swimsuits（Figure 2-11）.

Words and Expressions

fashion sense['f???n sens]時尚感覺

notion['n?u??n]觀念，意見，概念

illustrate['il?streit]圖示，圖解

aspect['?spekt]局面；容貌

jacket['d??kit]夾克

occupation[?kju'pei??n]職業

fashion trend['f???n trend]流行趨勢

fashion sketch['f???n sket?]時裝畫

design sketch[di'zain sket?]設計圖，效果圖

work clothing[w?：k'kl?uei?]工作服

consideration[k?nsid?'rei??n]考慮要點

neglected[ni'glektit]忽略的

business shirt['biznis ??：t]職業襯衫

casual shirt['k??ju?l ??：t]便裝襯衫

trousers['traωz?z]西褲

smart appearance[sma：t ?'pi?r?ns]瀟灑的外貌

collar['k?l?]領子

sleeve[sli：v]袖子

pocket['p?kit]口袋

style[stail]款式

town-wear['taωn-we?（r）]上街裝，外出服

dinner jacket['din?'d??kit]晚禮服

tuxedo[t?k'si：d?u]男士無尾晚禮服，塔士多

front opening[fr?nt'?up?ni?]前片開襟

bottom['b?t?m]下擺

braid[breid]辮子，穗帶，發辮

tail-coat[teil-k?ut]燕尾服

eyelet holes['ailit h?ulz]孔眼

lacing['leisi?]花邊

waist[weist]腰圍，腰

braces[breisiz]吊帶，背帶

button-holes['b?tn h?ulz]紐扣孔（廣東話：紐門）

side straps[said str?p]側吊帶*

elastic[i'l?stik]松緊帶

zipper fastener['zip?'fa：sn?]拉鏈系結物

formal shirt['f?：m?l ??：t]禮服襯衫

tab[t?b]襻帶

metal slide['metl slaid]金屬滑片

side seam[said si：m]側縫

pleating[pli：ti?]褶裥（廣東話：活褶）

frilling['frili?]皺邊*

hips[hips]臀圍（廣東話：坐圍）

fly front[flai fr?nt]暗門襟

double cuff['d?bl'k?f]雙層袖克夫

cash pocket[k??'p?kit]口袋，表袋

waistband['weistb?nd]腰頭

sweat shirt[swet ??：t]運動襯衫

current fashion['k?r?nt'f???n]流行服裝

un-cuffed bottom[?n-'k?fd'b?t?m]不翻邊褲腳

pullover['pωl?ωv?（r）]無領無扣衫，套衫

terry cloth['teri kl?：W]毛圈織物

fleece-lined cotton[fli：s-laind'k?tn]厚絨棉布

plain bottom[plein'b?t?m]平折下擺

slacks[sl?kz]寬松長褲

knit[nit]針織

leisure occasions['le?? ?'kei??nz]休閑　場合

interlock[，int?'l?k]雙羅紋

plaid[pl?d]格子布

patch pocket[p?t?'p?kit]明貼袋

stripes[straip]條紋布，帶條

checks[t?eks]大格布

side pocket[said'p?kit]側口袋

hip pocket[hip'p?kit]后袋

uniform['ju：nif?：m]制服

up-to-date trends[?p-tu：-'deit trend]最新潮流的

compliment['k?mplim?nt]恭維，贊美，稱贊

pants[p?nts]休閑褲

status['steit?s]地位，狀況

sports wear[sp?：tswε?]運動服

ski-pants[ski：-p?nts]滑雪褲

A-Line[?'lain]A字形

engaged[in'geid?d]忙碌的；預定的

mini shorts['mini ??：ts]超短褲

Christian Dior['kristi?n di?]克里斯汀·迪奧（法國時裝設計師）

Mandarin Dress/Qipao Dress['m?nd?rin dres/?ipao dres]旗袍

shoulder['??uld?]肩寬

bust[b?st]胸圍

upstanding collar[?p'st?ndi?'k?l?]立領

lingerie[，l?n??'ri：]婦女貼身內衣

hemline['hemlain]下擺

calf[ka：f]小腿

grommet['gr?mit]金屬眼孔

national costume['n???nl'k?stju：m]民族服裝

knee[ni：]膝圍

flounce[flauns]衣裙上的荷葉邊裝飾

frog pocket[fr?g'p?kit]風琴袋

princess line[prin'ses lain]公主線

crossed pocket[kr?st'p?kit]橫開口袋

tight fit[tait fit]緊身

halter neckline['h?：lt?'neklain]吊帶領圈

breeches['bri：t?iz]馬褲

production sketch[pr?'d?k??n sket?]生產圖

denim['denim]粗斜紋棉布；牛仔服裝

adorn[?'d?：n]裝飾

pattern-cutting['p?t?n-'k?ti?]紙樣裁剪

dart[da：t]省道（廣東話：死褶）

gathered skirt['g?e?r?sk?：t]縮褶裙

solid color['s?lid'k?l?]單色，純色

durability[，dju?r?'biliti]耐久性

top stitching['t?p-stit?]面縫線跡（廣東話：緝面線）

princess dress['prinses dres]公主裝

panel['p?nl]衣片

leisure shirt['le?? ??：t]休閑襯衫

seam[si：m]縫骨

yoke[j?uk]育克，過肩（廣東話：擔干，機頭）

center back['sent? b?k]后中

waistline['weistlain]腰圍線

fasten[fasten]系結物，扣緊

buckle['b?kl]皮帶扣

western shirt['west?n ??：t]西部襯衫

tapered shirt['teip?d ??：t]緊身襯衫

pointed collar['p?intid'k?l?]三尖領

flaps[fl?ps]袋蓋

brooch[bru：t?]胸針

jeans skirt[d?i：ns sk?：t]牛仔裙

skinny['skini]極瘦的

fancy snap['f?nsi sn?p]裝飾按鈕

tapered['teip?d]錐形的

slim[slim]苗條的

placket['pl?kit]開口，開襟（廣東話：明筒）

boot cut[bu：t k?t]喇叭口

narrow bottom['n?r?u?'b?t?m]窄腳

bell bottom[bel'b?t?m]喇叭腳

Tee-Shirt[ti：-??：t]T恤衫

plain[plein]平紋（布）

printed['printed]印花（布）

motifs[m?u'ti：f]意念；要素

underwear['?nd?wε?]內衣

close fitting[kl?uz'fiti?]緊身的

low waist[l?u weist]低腰

flare[flε?]寬擺的

revealing[rIvi：lI?]暴露的，袒胸露肩的

undergarment/underclothing['?nd?，ga：m?nt]/['?nd?kl?uei?]內衣

outer clothes['aut? kl?uez]外套

Levi's Jeans['li：vaiz d?einz]李維斯牛仔褲

prospectors[pr?'spekt?（r）]采礦者

unders/underwear['?nd?s]/['?nd?wε?]內衣

cargo-pocket jeans['ka：g?u'p?kit d?einz]大袋牛仔褲

nightwear[naItwe?]睡衣

Bermuda shorts[b?（：）'mju：d? ??：ts]百慕大短褲

swimsuit['swImsu：t]游泳衣

Exercises

1.Translate the following terms into Chinese.

（1）bottoms

（2）eyelet hole

（3）lacing

（4）zipper

（5）fastener

（6）pleating

（7）frilling

（8）fly front

（9）single cuff

（10）pullover

（11）terry cloth

（12）cotton

（13）knitted wear

（14）plaid

（15）striped

（16）fashion

（17）casual wear

（18）trousers

（19）collar

（20）sleeve

（21）patch pocket

（22）bottom

（23）jacket

（24）working shirt

（25）town-suit

（26）dinner jacket

（27）coat

（28）waist

（29）brace

（30）strap

（31）elastic

（32）tab

（33）side seam

（34）cash pocket

（35）waistband

（36）current fashion

（37）plain bottom

（38）slacks

（39）side pocket

（40）hip pocket

（41）pants

（42）sports wear

（43）ski-pants

（44）A-Line

（45）shoulder

（46）hemline

（47）flounce

（48）princess line

（49）breeches

（50）underwear

（51）close fitting

（52）Mandarin Dress

（53）lingerie

（54）tight fit

（55）grommet

（56）national costume

（57）pattern

（58）top-stitching

（59）leisure wear

（60）yoke

（61）center back

（62）pointed collar

（63）pocket flap

（64）snap

（65）placket

（66）Tee-shirt

（67）plain

（68）pleat

（69）dart

2.Describe this style in a 200 words paragraph（Including Front View&Back View）.

3.Draw the production sketch according to the following description.

A casual shirt should be designed with the collars, short or long sleeves, and the point pockets are usual features in this style of shirt. The front opening can be from top to bottom with buttons and button-holes, or zipper fastener.